Media post: The risks of selling your car privately

5. Private sale risks

What you should know.

Selling your car privately is risky business. You have a high chance of getting the best price for your car but that’s certainly not guaranteed and it does take time and effort and come with some risks you should be aware of.

Sell My Car is a car buying service that eliminates all of the risks of private sale. Before you commit to selling your car privately, you may want to consider some of the risks involved: 

1 – Expect tyre-kickers

The term tyre-kicker refers to a type of person who requests information from you, with no intention of ever buying. As any person who works in the sales industry will tell you, they are frustrating and unavoidable. You could waste a lot of time organising inspections and providing information to people who aren’t planning to buy. Negotiating on price can be a hassle, being questioned about how much your car is worth. You can try and identify a tyre-kicker by asking questions like “When are you planning to buy?” and “What are your contact details?”, if they are reluctant to provide answers you may have a tyre-kicker and decide not to invest too much time.

2 – Protect your advertisement

If you have chosen to sell through an online classifieds site, you may need to protect yourself against unauthorised access to your advertisement. Only ever login to your advertisement through a legitimate website or address, never via a link. Fake websites are often created with similar URLs to car classified websites to trick people into entering their personal information.

3 – Protect yourself

Find out whom you’re dealing with and request a name and contact phone number. It is a good idea to not give out your personal details (such as your address or phone number), as you don’t want people coming and knocking on your door or knowing where the car is being housed, sometimes this can’t be helped if you’re selling privately as you need potential buyers to be able to contact you and inspect the car.

4 – Do your research

Don’t agree to a test drive until you have checked your insurance. Comprehensive insurance policies generally cover test drives but you should always check to make sure. Also check the insurance of the potential buyer, as an accident may not be covered if the driver is uninsured. It may also be worth taking something of value to them if you are not attending the test drive, such as their car keys or phone to minimise the risk of them not bringing your car back. Lastly, always consider if it’s safe to get in the car with this person and always trust your gut instincts if you’re in any doubt.

5 – Spot scammers

Beware of scammers. A common scam targeted at car sellers involves a fake buyer who offers to purchase your car via Paypal without inspecting the vehicle. They often claim to organise and pay for a freight company to come and collect the car due to them being interstate or overseas, they claim there is an issue with the freight company and encourage you to pay the freight cost directly into their bank account and then provide you with fake receipts. Always use your common sense in these situations, if you sense it is a scam, do not agree to anything. Remember that you can always contact your local office of fair trading for advice.

Ultimately, if you do decide to sell your car privately it could be worth familiarising yourself with the points outlined above to avoid any unwanted drama down the track. Alternatively, you could jump onto the Sell My Car website, get an estimated value for your car, make an appointment to your car inspected and we’ll make you an offer to buy your car on the spot with guaranteed payment.

About Sell My Car

Sellmycar.com.au is a car buying service backed by Manheim Auctions Australia & global business Cox Enterprises. They purchase your vehicle directly from you, offering a faster, easier and smarter way to sell your car. See their website for more details www.sellmycar.com.au.

Media post: Remembering the Scion xB – a Great Little Toaster that Fizzled Out

Scion xB

The Scion xB is/was a great little hatchback. Created by Toyota got their youth-marketed Scion line, the xB was one of several cubey/toastery little cars that debuted in the early 2000’s. The Scion’s boxy frame makes it look big, but this is far from the truth. Super-compact in its first generation, the Scion remained officially compact for the rest of its run, which played out from 2003 to 2015. In the end, people just weren’t buying xB’s, despite their many practical charms. You’ll still see xB’s on the road all time time, from every manufacturing year. We’ll cover some of their strengths and weaknesses. Even though their popularity fizzled while they were available on lots around the country, you may find yourself longing for a used one of your very own.

The xB’s sales peaked in 2006, it’s fourth year of manufacture, at just over 61,000 units sold. From there it was a long slow decline, with a precipitous sales drop of 20,000 units between 2008 and 2009. By the end of its second generation run, Toyota was moving less than a quarter of the units they sold during the xB’s manufacturing peak, and pulled the plug. The people who owned or still own the Scion tend to talk about these little cars fondly. Mechanically simple and reliable (these things run on a Corolla engine, actually), xB’s tend to run forever. They might not run fast or particularly smoothly (at least in the automatic transmission orientation), but what they lack in sexy pickup they make up for in practical performance and stamina. xB’s don’t cost a lot to maintain, and car insurance is on the low side for the older models in particular.

The xB, even in its first generation, had gas mileage in the 30’s, something even today’s manufacturers brag about achieving. In addition, they are also incredibly spacious inside. It really was a brilliant achievement for a super-compact car. The xB is known for being a good car for very tall people. Drivers and passengers well over 6’6” can sit without finding their legs cramped, and the large doors for this size car make entrance and egress a breeze. The slightly goofy silhouette, either incredibly attractive or hideously ugly depending on who you talk to, lends itself to youth, humor, and adventure. The xB has gained a reputation as a great vehicle for people with dogs – and the dogs tend to like it too.

The xB isn’t going anywhere anytime soon, even though it’s no longer rolling off of manufacturing lines. The used models out on the roads today, the youngest still less than a year old, have years or even decades of life ahead of them. For people looking for a spacious, affordable, and reliable vehicle, the Scion xB may be just the token. Look for one on Craigslist or in used car lots around your area. Just because this car’s sales slumped at the end of its run doesn’t mean that this won’t be a car you’ll absolutely love.

Media post: Engine oil urban legends

Engine oil

Get a bunch of car enthusiasts together and sooner or later the topic about motor oil will come up. As the conversation gets rolling, you are bound to hear a pile of opinions and some old time urban legends. Some of these urban legends have been around a long time and really aren’t accurate. In this article, the service staff at Fort Dodge Ford of Fort Dodge, IA, a full-service Ford, Lincoln, Toyota dealer, provided us with some expert feedback on 6 popular myths.

Every 3,000 miles, change your oil

This is an old time rule of thumb. It is a recommendation from the days when oils weren’t as refined as they are now. Experts today agree that the oil in today’s cars should be changed at the intervals specified by the manufacturer. These intervals are typically 5000 to 10,000 miles now. Check your owner’s manual, or check with your dealer, to find out what the manufacturer of your car recommends.

If the oil on the dipstick is dirty, it needs to be changed

Petroleum chemists say this is a myth. Motor oil that gets dark does not mean it is necessary “dirty”. The reason it gets dark is that some of the additives change color as they work. The oil is just doing its job and may not need to be changed at all. As we discussed in the paragraph above, change your oil at the manufacturer recommended intervals not according to what it looks like.

Before long trips, change your oil

This is an interesting one. Experts say that it is possible you hit the mileage that the oil should be changed at during your trip and then it should be changed. One thing that does make sense before a long trip is to look your entire car over before you leave. That means looking for possible failure points like belts and radiator hoses. Be sure to check all the other fluids in your car also.

Once you switch to synthetic oil, you have to stick with it

This is another recommendation from the old days. Today, it is just a myth. In fact, the line between synthetic oil and petroleum-based oil is blurring because the two types of oil are often blended together today. You are free to switch back and forth between synthetic oil and petroleum-based oil as much as you’d like, today.

When you buy a new car, change your oil at 1000 miles

Oil samples taken from engines during the first 1,000 miles of driving do show elevated “wear-in” metal levels. However the manufacturers know this phenomena quite well and put special oils in their cars to use during the break-in period. So when do you change the “original oil?” Once again, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations! If you are unsure what they are, contact your local dealer.

Some oils are better than others

Maybe, but the differences are pretty minor. Some oils have additives that vary from manufacturer to manufacturer but they don’t change the characteristic of the oil very much. The most important thing to do is buy oil that is the proper viscosity for your car and meets ASE standards, which almost all do today.

Media post: Using Automotive Code Scanners

Car-Engine-Code-Scanner

You probably know that when the Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminates on your car, you should bring the car it to a mechanic to see what’s wrong. When you do this, the first thing the mechanic does is plug in a code scanner to “read the codes”. Basically what a code scanner does is interface with a car’s Powertrain Control Module (PCM) where all the engine error codes are stored. This allows them to professionally diagnose the problem and solve it. The service manager at Bosak Honda in Michigan City, IN, Michigans #1 Honda Dealer, says cars have been made with OBDII ports that allow scanning PCM modules since 1995.

This is how code scanners work: the fuel injection, ignition system and automatic transmission on most modern cars and trucks are run by the PCM. This computer collects operating data from the engine and other systems on the car and then send commands to the ignition coils, fuel injectors and other systems. They also store some of this operating data in memory so that mechanics can get insight into what’s been going on when service is needed.

When the CEL light on your car’s instrument panel goes on, it means that the PCM is receiving data from a sensor that indicates something isn’t working right. The PCM translates that sensor problem into a diagnostic code so a service technician can read it and know where to look for the problem. Sometimes some interpretation is involved when reading error codes but professional mechanics know most of the tricks.

Not long ago code scanners were expensive as they were really just for professional service technicians. Today, prices vary from $30 or so for a simple code reader to maybe $200 for full-featured machine. The inexpensive ones lack the fancy features of the high-end ones but they are quite useful, nonetheless. If you enjoy understanding what’s going on deep down in your car, consider getting one. They are available at all auto parts stores these days, and online at a multitude of websites.

Using a code scan tool is simple. To get started, plug the scan tool into the OBD II connector under the dash of your car. (If you can’t find the connector, check your owner’s manual. You may find a website or forum that can help you too.) After you get it connected, turn the car’s key on then follow the scan tool’s onscreen instructions. Eventually you’ll get an option to check for trouble codes and you will press a button to get them. You may want to write then down if you see any.

For interpretation, the manual that came with the scan tool may help, or go online. For most people, going on line is the best way to find out what the problem is. For example, on Google or another search engine, type in the model of your car and then the code number that the scan tool displayed. You will find dozens of sites that can help you diagnose what the problem is. Keep in mind that most of the responses you see will be non-professionals discussing the error code but usually, the solution will be identified by some of the more knowledgeable amateur mechanics on-line. Your ultimate resource is to have your local dealer take a look.

Media post: What is a crossover?

Chevrolet Trax. Picture courtesy of largus.fr

We all know what a Sport Utility Vehicle (SUV) is. It’s a large-ish, four door vehicle with a steel frame and four wheel drive. A decade or so ago, an SUV was something like a Chevy Suburban or Tahoe. They were the car of choice for those that needed lots of room and the ability to go just about anywhere. Soon, however, the world’s automakers realized that the public wanted this type of vehicle but not quite so big. The big ones were great for hauling the entire soccer team to practice but a little too much for your average family. Besides, the big SUVs were horrible on gas. The result was that the car manufacturers started to make SUVs smaller, more fuel efficient and far sleeker looking. These smaller SUVs became very popular.

Then a new type of vehicle appeared: crossovers. Crossovers looked just like the small SUVs and had four wheel drive or All Wheel Drive (AWD) systems. It wasn’t long before most people were confused. What exactly is a crossover and how does it differ from a SUV? As it turns out, few people knew the difference because the term came from automobile marketing departments and it wasn’t defined very well. That was a decade or so ago.

Today, the term is common and the sales staff at Watters in Indianola, IA, a full-service Buick GMC dealership, gave us this definition: “Crossovers are vehicles that are styled to look like SUVs, but are really just passenger cars.” A more useful technical distinction involves the construction of the vehicle. First, SUVs are built on steel frames. These frames and attached drivetrains are very similar to what is used on light-duty truck platforms. As a result, SUVs are heavy, rugged vehicles. Crossovers, on the other hand, are built on unibody platforms – like most regular cars are, i.e. they don’t have steel frames. As a result, crossovers are smaller, lighter vehicles.

From a marketing viewpoint, crossovers still offer many of the appealing qualities of an SUV, such as high visibility, and large cargo capacities. Those qualities combined with the looks of SUVs, All-Wheel-Drive (AWD) and good fuel economy make them appealing vehicles. What you don’t get with a crossover is the heavier weight and steel frame construction of an SUV that allows big towing capacity and off-road capability.

And they are popular. Crossovers are a huge force in the car business today. They have become so popular that they have officially overthrown minivans as the standard family vehicle. Just look at the statistics: last year, 2.7 million crossovers were sold compared to just 471,000 minivans. That’s a 5:1 ratio. The reason? Crossover styling is sportier and appeals to a broader consumer base. So if you are looking for a 4×4 or AWD vehicle, you have the option of either a SUVs or Crossover. At least now, you know what the actual difference between the two platforms is.

Media post: The car that changed America

Ford-Model-T-USA-1923

On July 30, 1863, Henry Ford was born in Dearborn, Michigan. As a youngster, he grew up curious about the machinery that was used for farming and enjoyed working on it. When he got older, he got a part-time job working for the nearby Westinghouse Engine Company. At Westinghouse, Henry learned all he could about internal combustion engines and frequently worked 10-12 hour days. In his spare time he pursued his passion of building a “horseless carriage”. His first design was finished in 1896 and several others soon followed. He then started building them for sale to clients.

Before long Henry was formally selling his “automobiles” and in 1903 he incorporated the Ford Motor Company. By 1908, Ford had completed the design of his first Model T automobile, and started building them. Although there were many companies building automobiles, the sales manager at Ames Ford of Ames, IA, a full-service Ford dealer, says to keep in mind that Henry’s Model T was built for the masses and was priced affordably. The consumer acceptance of the Model T was nothing short of phenomenal and he was deluged with not only customers but people that wanted to become “Ford Dealers.” It wasn’t long before demand outstripped supply and Ford needed to make Model T cars rapidly. His solution to this problem was an advanced type of “assembly line”. As a result of this revolutionary concept, his Highland Park plant could turn out a complete Model T chassis every 93 minutes. Previously it took 728 minutes. As the process was improved, Ford’s mass-production techniques would eventually allow for the manufacture of a Model T every 24 seconds!

Ford was always sympathetic to the plight of the working man and in 1914 he began paying his employees five dollars a day, nearly doubling the wages offered by other manufacturers. This “Five Dollar Day” was simply unheard of and it assured that he could obtain the best employees on the job market. Later he cut the average workday from nine to eight hours in order to convert the factory to a three-shift workday. This was undoubtedly lead to the expansion of the vast middle class in the United States. An economic strata where workers could live well, take vacations and raise their families.

The Model T automobile was instrumental to opening up the country for expansion and travel. It was a dream for most Americans to own their own. By 1927, the last Model Ts were made. By then nearly 15,500,000 Model T’s were sold in the United States alone and the vehicle had irrevocably altered American society. As a result of the Model T Ford and other automobiles, America was turned into a mobile society. In 1928, the Ford Company released a much anticipated sequel to the Model T called the Model A. The Model A had a great deal of design help from Henry’s son Edsel who had a keen eye for styling. The Model A was available in many colors and was a very good looking automobile.

It is quite a realization that Ford changed the fabric of the United States. Interestingly, though, he personally longed for the simple, agrarian lifestyle of his youth. One can only imagine how simple life was when Henry was a young man and how it had become when he reached old age.

Media post: The evolution of automobile paint

Automobile paint

The paint that protects and beautifies cars have changed a great deal in the last 100 years. Not only have they evolved from naturally-based products to fully synthetic ones, the method of applying them has changed from hand brushing to being applied by robots. Thanks to information we gleaned from the body shop guys at Fletcher in Franklin, IN, a Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, Ram dealer, we have put together a great article here that follows the history of automotive paints and finishes.

Originally done by hand

In the early part of the 20th century, automobiles were painted by hand. The paints consisted of natural products (often linseed oil with natural pigments) and the painting process took many days. It probably goes without explanation that this part of the process created a serious bottleneck for the production plant. The car manufacturers soon leaned on the paint companies to come up with a quicker process.

DuPont rose to the occasion in the early 1920s with its new lacquer paint product. These paints were based on nitrocellulose and were applied via spray guns. The car manufacturers were thrilled as this speeded up vehicle assembly time a great deal. While lacquers were a major step forward, multiple coats were still needed and drying had to occur in between coats. Lacquers also have poor resistance to common automobile fluids. Repeated exposures to gasoline spills, for example around the filler cap, can damage lacquer finishes.

Then in the 1930s, enamel paints began to appear. Enamels were sprayed on vehicles via spray guns and then were baked in ovens. This greatly speeded up the manufacturing process and produced a rock hard finish which was resistant to solvents. However, enamel paints weren’t perfect. While they looked beautiful on the show room floor, they oxidized when exposed to direct sunlight for long periods and this caused the colors to fade. This tendency was improved considerably with the introduction of “acrylic enamels” in the early 1960’s. Acrylic enamels were far more resistant to oxidation and available a wider range of bright, pleasing colors – especially metallics.

In the late 1970s, a new type of finish started to appear on European cars. It was called “basecoat/clearcoat.” Basically this type of paint consisted of a colored enamel basecoat topped by an ultra-hard clear enamel. This two coat process allowed a great deal more flexibility in the composition of the base coat (more colors and metallics) because the top clear coat functioned as a protectant. By the late 1980’s this paint system had become widespread in the US. In fact, only a small percentage of cars manufactured today, do not use basecoat/clearcoat paint systems.

While the basecoat/clearcoat paint system is far superior to conventional one-coat enamel paints in many respects, it has a few disadvantages. The clearcoat has a greater tendency to show erode when rubbed by foreign materials. Overtime, the clearcoat can deteriorate too and it can’t be “buffed out” like the older enamels could.

Note: It is important for car owners to realize that waxing and buffing is not a process that is normally performed on basecoat/clearcoated cars. You can still wax your car but you need a special non-abrasive formulation so the clearcoat isn’t eroded. Check with your local car dealer for further information.

Media posts: Manual Transmission Myths

Manual transmission

It hasn’t disappeared yet but the old manual transmission is on the endangered list. As of 2015, less than 4 percent of new cars were equipped with manual transmissions. Despite the small numbers, though, defenders of manuals are a hardy group. They still claim superiority in gas mileage and efficiency. The problem is that a lot of it isn’t supported by the facts. Speaking with Bosak in Merrillville, IN, a Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, Ram Truck dealer, we got the low down on the most common myths concerning manual transmissions.

Vehicles with manual transmissions get superior MPG

This used to be true. The reason that manuals used to deliver better gas mileage is that they were more efficient. Here’s why: automatics have things called “torque converters” in them which transfers power from the engine to the transmission via a big, donut-shaped fluid coupling. The problem was that in the conversion that a lot of energy was lost as heat. This heat is essentially lost energy leading to poor MPG. Today, however, virtually all automatic transmissions have what is called “lock up torque converters.” Lock up torque converters eliminate the fluid coupling at cruising speeds so power isn’t lost like it used to be. Another issue is that automatics today also have many more gears than they used to have so. Back in the 1960s, automatics had some 2 to 4 gear ratios. Today they have up to 10. So, here’s the conclusion today: on many of today’s vehicles, the automatic transmission version actually gets better gas mileage than the manual version!

The best sports cars only come with manual transmissions so they must be better

The seventh-generation 2015 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray and 2015 Porsche 911 both offer a choice of a manual or automatic transmission, and the automatic versions are quite popular. So the fact that high-end sports cars come with both types of transmissions should be an indication that manual transmissions aren’t superior to automatics, just different.

A car with a manual transmission costs less

Does a car with a manual transmission cost less than the same car with an automatic transmission? Well, there is some truth to this one. Sometimes the manual transmission model is cheaper. However, not always. On many GM vehicles, the two options are the exactly the same price. Bottom line: It depends on the car and, frankly, the deal you get on it.

Manual cars are stolen less

File this under “urban legend.” The theory is that because fewer people know how to drive manuals these days, cars equipped with them are less likely to be stolen. It certainly makes for interesting discussion but the statistics don’t back it up. That being said, every once in a while you do hear stories of thieves who have abandoned a car theft when they discovered that a car had a manual transmission. It’s a humorous story so the media tends to publish these kinds of stories often when they occur. 

Teenagers want to learn to drive manual transmissions

We aren’t sure where this one comes from because many young people say this isn’t true. This may be because there are so few manual transmission cars are being sold, there is some curiosity about “the old way of doing it”. Maybe but most tend to prefer automatics when exposed to both.

Conclusion

So there you go. the object of this article was not to talk anyone out of purchasing a vehicle with a manual transmission, just to debunk some of the myths that circulate around. If you are considering a new or used car and don’t know what type of transmission to look for, try them both out.

Media post: My car battery keeps going dead

Car battery

If you have ever had a car with a battery that randomly goes dead, then you know what true frustration is. It can be one of the most annoying things to deal with because you never know when it can leave you stranded. And not only is that annoying, the problem can be difficult to fix too. The problem is sometimes the problem is a bad battery, sometimes it’s the charging system, and other times it’s a problem with the car’s wiring. It can be complex troubleshooting this sort of thing so, in most cases, you will want a professional mechanic to help you out. Just so you know, though, here are some of the things that can cause a battery to die on you.

A Faulty Charging System

The charging system in your car is designed to keep the car battery fully charged. If it malfunctions and provides a charge that’s too high or too low, then you can have a problem. Technically a fully charged battery produces 12.6VDC voltage. The service manager at Bosak Honda in Highland, IN, a premier Honda dealer, told us that to charge a car battery properly, the alternator must pump out some 13.5VDC or higher. If the alternator isn’t working properly then it likely is not charging the car battery properly. This can occur due to a loose connection, a bad circuit, or just a faulty alternator.

Short-Term Driving

Driving your car on short trips too often can contribute to a battery with a poor charge. This is because the most intensive use of the battery in your car is the initial engine starting phase (10-20 seconds) when a lot of amps are drawn. When short trips are the norm, though, you never give the alternator enough time to get fully charged. When in doubt, drive around for 10 mins or more just to keep a good charge in the battery.

Extreme Temperatures

Extreme cold and/or heat can stress the internal chemistry and structure of a car battery and induce premature failure and a weakened battery. In most cases, there isn’t much you can do about temperature extremes but it’s a factor that you should know about. Chemically what goes on is called “sulfation”. Sulfation is a build-up of lead sulfate crystals which can shorten the life of the battery and lengthen the amount of time needed to charge it. If your battery is heavily sulfated and you don’t drive your car a lot (as we discussed above) your battery may never get fully charged.

Excessive Current Draw

There are electronic devices in your car that will draw a small amount of power to stay on, things like your clock circuit and other items. Normally this sort of thing won’t kill your battery. However, if you have an excessive current draw due to a wiring short circuit or some other kind of fault, then your battery may lose its charge before you get a chance to drive your car again. Of course, leaving a light in your car on will do the same thing (as we all know!).

Media post: The History of Turn Signals

1939 Buick Special Model 41-CIn 1939 Buick was the 1st US camaker to offer flashing turn signals as standard.

We realize that there are some people who don’t use turn signals, and others who use it every single time they make a turn or switch lanes. However, have you ever wondered how turn signals evolved on modern-day cars? You have come to the right place to read about how turn signals have come to be! Read on for more information.

Inventions That Didn’t Make it to the Modern Day

Original turn signals weren’t really turn signals; instead, a driver would stick their hand out the window to indicate which way they were planning on turning. Arm up meant turning right, arm down meant a left turn and holding an arm straight out meant the driver was stopping.

We will start with Percy Douglas-Hamilton, who in 1907 applied for a patent, received in 1909 as U.S. patent 912831, for a device “indicating the intended movements of vehicles.” Douglas-Hamilton’s lights were shaped like hands because Douglas-Hamilton believed that drivers would easily understand hand signals.

In 1914 silent-film actress Florence Lawrence designed, but did not patent, a mechanical signaling arm. With Lawrence’s design, a driver would push a button to make a sign on the rear bumper appear to tell other drivers which way this vehicle’s operator was turning. Lawrence spoke to The Green Book Magazine, telling them that her mechanical signaling arm could be raised or lowered by electric push buttons. There was even a “stop” function that worked “automatically whenever the foot brake is pressed.” Lawrence had taken after her mother, who in 1918 patented a “cleaning device” for windshields.

If you are interested in visiting the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C., you will find a handmade one-off signal made by Oscar J. Simler in 1929. That turn signal had a four-lobed shape with lenses for lights indicating left turn, right turn or slow.

First Modern-Day Turn Signal

In 1925 Edgar A. Walz Jr. secured a patent for a turn signal similar to ones we have right now. Walz marketed his turn signal to major car manufacturers, but they didn’t care about this new invention and Walz’s patent expired less than a decade and a half later.

In 1939 Buick was the first United States automaker to offer flashing turn signals that were factory-installed on their vehicles. These flashing turn signals were introduced as safety features, and a unit was advertised as the “Flash-Way Directional Signal” that a driver used a “Handi-shift” column-mounted shifter to operate. These turn signals only worked for the rear lights, but this was no doubt a useful invention. But, in 1940 Buick put signals on the front lights as well leading directional signals to be required on every Buick, LaSalle, Cadillac and Hudson County Club vehicle.

If anything ever goes wrong with your turn signals, such as a bad bulb or an open circuit, Hyundai of White Plains, NY, a local car dealer, will be there to repair them. We hope this article has given you some insight on how turn signals have evolved throughout their time!